The Galapagos Islands, famous for its incredible natural wild life, and largely brought to the attention of the world by the research and writings of Charles Darwin, has long been a Mecca for cruisers on the Pacific route.
The government of Ecuador in its efforts to preserve this state of nature under the ever increasing pressure of so called 'environmental tourism', has to continually tighten up restrictions on visiting vessels, which of course includes cruising yachts.
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Galapagos Islands |
Here is an article from Sail-World.com and Noonsite.com highlighting the latest move to hold back the possible introduction of foreign marine life into their fragile ecosystem:
The report explains that all yachts planning to visit the Galapagos Islands must have their hull professionally cleaned before leaving their previous port. On arrival in the islands, it will be inspected, possibly by a diver, to ensure there is no foreign marine life which can endanger the native ecosystem.
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Anchorage at Puerto Aroyo |
If the inspection is not satisfactory, the yacht will be sent away from the National Park. This involves going 30 to 40 miles out to sea. Where, if conditions allow, further cleaning of the hull can take place.
In addition, the yacht must be fumigated. Preferably before arrival, but it can be carried out on arrival. Ensure that an approved product is used and that you have a certificate.
The new requirements also specify that two notices be posted on the yacht.
One, on the outside stating ‘Do not throw garbage overboard’ and another on the inside by the engine compartment saying ‘Do not discharge Black waters into the sea’.
When I sailed into Puerto Ayoro, whilst similar restrictions were in place, the general administration of them was certainly more relaxed than it is today. We didn't have a 'Autographo' and therefore neither a 'National Zarpe', but being aware of the regulations figured we would not be allowed to stay much more than the 72hr. allowance.
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Tere Moana at anchor looking very small |
Here is an extract from my book 'Sailing Adventures in Paradise' which tells what happened to us as a result of a visit to the then Port Captain first thing in the morning following our arrival:
"Dawn breaks a murky grey sheet
over the town. The bugle blast of the navy reveille is the first sound to be
heard, and her crew stumble into the cockpit. Peering into the mist they
realise they are moored directly off the local navy base. Without a military
vessel in sight, crisp white uniformed ratings line up in the quadrangle, and
salute the Ecuador flag as it is hoisted up its staff. Our crew remind
themselves that Ecuador is indeed a democracy and they have no need to worry –
however, following on from what they saw the previous evening, the nagging
doubts firmly lodged in the corner of their minds will not disperse.
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Seals (and others) on the beach, Galapagos |
These
islands are so unique, and classified ‘eco tourist’ by the Ecuadorian
government, there are strong warnings and procedural advice for visiting
yachtsmen. Visiting areas other than designated ports, is not allowed, and if
caught will face immediate arrest and probable confiscation of vessel. Visits
are only allowed for a maximum of forty eight hours on an emergency basis,
repairs and/or provisioning, with visas issued to this effect. All printed
material stresses this, so her crew are acutely aware of this protocol as they
put ashore in the dinghy to visit the Puerto Capitano.
In their smartest casual gear
they manage the tricky landing on the stone wall, stepping ashore with the
minimum amount of mud and salt water stains on their clothing. Straightening
their garments as best they can, and the captain, importantly carrying their
waterproof doco/passport bag tucked under one arm, they set off down the quay.
Arriving at the lovely old colonial stone building which is the Custom house,
and Puerto Capitano’s office, all varnish and gloss inside, they are ushered
into his office. A handsome fortyish officer, with a level gaze, stares at them
bleakly from the other side of a huge desk. Varnish must be cheap in this
country as this piece of furniture is positively glowing.
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Sea lions at play |
Our crew are not
easily intimidated, but with his cool, silent stare, and two matelots one each
side standing to attention behind, this comes close. Our captain compliments him on his fine building, and his incredibly crisp
and brilliant white uniform. He cocks his head slightly, breaks into a raffish grin and says:
‘And how long is it you would like to be
staying in our country?’.
Our captain, momentarily taken
aback, but having risen early, replies that ten days would be very nice indeed,
thankyou.
‘Not a problem’, a now very relaxed
Puerto Capitano replies.
Visas are produced, with passports being
stamped accordingly, entry fees paid, and our crew shuffle backwards out of his
office almost bowing as they go. Our captain is on the point of inviting the
Port Captain to join them for a beer at some point at his convenience, but
considers this might be pushing their new relationship a little too far!
Instead, they march straight faced down the sea wall, eyes to the front, out of
sight round the first corner and suddenly leap into the air, fist punching in
their exhilaration. Ten days to explore these fabulous evolutionary islands. A
local fruit seller looking out from his stall gives them a quizzical glance – crazy
foreigners! Events as we shall see will extend this time to eleven days. Later,
checking their entry fee dockets, our crew discover that it was somewhat less
than they had calculated."
Visit the Noonsite website and you can find a wealth of information on the necessary documents, fees and restrictions that need to be complied with to legally sail amongst these fabulous islands. Here are two links that will help you :
http://www.noonsite.com/Countries/Galapagos?rc=Formalities
http://www.noonsite.com/Countries/Galapagos/the-islands-fees-and-general-info-update
You can find out about the events that led to our stay being extended in my book 'Sailing Adventures in Paradise' available from my website http://www.sailboat2adventure.com and much more about the cruising lifestyle on passage.